Tuesday, March 8, 2011

Still eating, raving and getting about












Culture One rave "outfit"














































































These women were passing out a caffienated drink with vodka






























































































































SALT



South of Bangkok on our way to Hua Hin, along the Gulf of Thailand, one passes paddy after paddy where salt is produced. Here is a description I found on the internet of the process.
In the making of budu (fish sauce) used in cooking, Thai southerners depend on salt from Pattani, as this southern province is the major source of sea salt in the region. The taste of Pattani salt is not as strong as salt from other parts of the country. Salt production in Pattani dates back to over 600 years ago. The production technique of Pattani salt has been transferred from generation to generation. Most salt farmers are men. So in the salt fields there can be fathers and sons, younger and elder brothers, grandfathers and grandsons, or fathers and their sons-in-law. Women take part only if there is a shortage of men to work the fields.
Pattani salt farmers say local salt fields tend to be clustered in Bana, Tanyong Luloh, and Barahom subdistricts of Muang Pattani district and in Bang Pu subdistrict of Yaring district. The production depends on the weather. It lasts long and gives high yields in a dry year, but in a rainy year, producing sea salt is difficult or even completely impossible.

The production usually starts in January, when salt farmers build earthen dykes around their salt fields. They make the dykes and the fields firm with rollers made of hard wood or coconut trunks.

In February the farmers allow a small amount of seawater into the fields to test their soil. If a thin layer of salt remains when the water evaporates, the fields will be ready for full production. Farmers usually keep the level of seawater in their fields at about the depth of their index finger and wait for 10-15 days. A low level of seawater will quickly produce salt that is not too salty. A high level of seawater will yield more salt, and make it more concentrated. Pattani salt farmers favor a taste that is not very salty, unlike their counterparts in Phetchaburi province, whose product has a stronger flavor. The time of the salt harvest in Pattani is in March and April.
Salt sales occur between May and July, but farmers do not have to rush. They can wait for satisfactory prices because their product never rots, and salt prices certainly climb if they wait until the rains. The salt sale period is the prime time for the farmers. Traders from many towns get their salt supply from Pattani as they are impressed with not only the good taste and cleanliness of Pattani salt but also the long-standing business culture of Pattani salt farmers.
One important tradition is that farmers willingly give customers one part of salt for every ten parts purchased. Ancestors of Pattani salt farmers told the younger ones not to take advantage of their customers. They explained that salt might spill while it is being shoveled, so the one-tenth giveaway compensates for the spill. The giveaway culture still remains when customers buy salt directly from farmers, though it might not be applied in markets where standard measuring tools are used. Although the old-time culture has been replaced to a certain extent by technology, Pattani salt farmers still possess the spirit of fair trade and are ready to pass it along to future generations. The ratio of one part given away for every 10 parts sold continues to complement the uniquely pleasant taste of Pattani salt
















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The only food I have bought on the street that I really didn't like was this candied gourd. I threw it in the river.








Amok
In South-East Asian cuisine, "mok" or "amok" refers to either the process of steam cooking a curry in banana leaves or to the resulting dish. Thick coconut gravy and galangal are classic ingredients, added to a wide range of possible kinds of leaves and staple ingredients. Amok is major national culinary tradition in Cambodia and a major dish in Laos and Thailand. This one was a light fish pudding covered with a sticky-rice-flour and coconut cream.













Deep fried barracuda head



My favorite snack
are these hot, not
too sweet banana
fritters covered
with sticky rice-flour
batter with coconut













Some of the endless skewered grilled offerings on the street.













Just when you think you can't eat another thing, comes the smell of some wonderful freshly made concoction that might change your life for the fourth or fifth time that day. Do you really want to take the chance of possibly missing out?

















A pork curry with tons of fresh ginger




















A curry stall in the market by the Grand Palace













Duck hanging in a shop in the market















Steamed seasoned rice in lotus leaves









Grilling is very common. Here we see a very popular preparation where fish is coated with salt; some of the fish in the back are filled with stalks of lemon-grass and herbs




Near the amulet market is a soi where they are making Buddha images and depictions of revered monks.

































Hua Hin, from the balcony at the condo lent to us by our friends Simon and Poe

















Children with their mother releasing fish into the Chao Phrya river and getting a lesson in merit making. The market nearby sells small birds, turtles, and fish. People believe that by releasing them they are freeing them and will be rewarded with merit in their next life. There was a young girl in the water who had an entrepreneurial spirit. She was gathering up those released and selling them back to the vendors.














Pigeons become part of the architecture













February 18 2011 Makha Bucha Day / Magha Puja Day
This is in commemoration of a spontaneous gathering of 1,250 Sangha followers who came to meet Lord Buddha 9 months after his first enlightenment. They were ordained by Lord Buddha and enlightened. Celebrated with candle light processions three times clockwise around the temple, usually in the evening. It is also a day when many people give alms like instant or canned foods and necessities like robes, incense and candles to the monks.
The date changes from year to year. It is always on full moon day of the 3rd lunar month, Makha. In Bangkok, went with Poe to celebrate this day in the evening with a few thousand others parading up the 366 steps to this hilltop temple overlooking the city. Below one could see other glowing lines of monks and devotees making their way around surrounding temples in the area. The only noise came from the ringing of bells, gongs, sermons broadcast over loud-speakers and of course Celine Dion, and JayZ piping up on a cell phone.

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